An Unfiltered Travel Guide & Photo Diary
A 280-meter climb over three kilometers to a shepherd's outpost in Tragjas marks the shift from the Adriatic coast to rugged terrain. Planners must negotiate border crossings, starting at the Hani i Hotit - Bozhaj border into Albania. The route balances these mountain ascents with historic walks, including a 4km walking route past Ohrid's lakeside churches.
Bridging the cliff-side Ostrog Monastery and the white Ottoman houses of Berat, this route connects vertical mountain sanctuaries with historic, hillside trading towns.
Arrival in Kotor
Day 1 of 21Arrive at any time in Tivat or Podgorica and make the overland transfer to Kotor. Settle into your accommodation within reach of the fortified old town, a medieval maze of churches and winding streets. An evening walk is the best way to get your bearings before finding dinner.
On the ground
Bay of Kotor by Boat
Day 2 of 21The day begins at Kotor's port, boarding a boat for a tour of the bay. The ride passes several small islands and historic sites, including the artificial island of Our Lady of the Rocks, before docking at the town of Perast. Spend some time exploring its quiet, stone-built old town before the boat returns to Kotor around midday, leaving the afternoon free for individual exploration.
On the ground
Budva, Ostrog & Durmitor National Park
Day 3 of 21A long day of overland travel heads south first to the coastal town of Budva to see its Venetian-walled old town. From there, the route turns inland, climbing toward the Ostrog Monastery, a 17th-century pilgrimage site built dramatically into a vertical cliff face. The final leg of the journey passes through the rugged, glacier-formed landscape of Durmitor National Park, with a stop to walk the shore of the Black Lake before arriving in the mountain town of Žabljak for the night.
On the ground
Biogradska Gora National Park
Day 4 of 21After a two-hour drive, the day is spent in Biogradska Gora National Park, one of Europe's last remaining primeval forests. The main activity is a walk around the park's glacial lake, a path that winds through pristine forest and mountain scenery. After lunch inside the park, there's free time to rent a boat or kayak for a different perspective on the landscape. A short late-afternoon drive leads to the nearby town of Kolašin.
On the ground
Off-Road to the Capital
Day 5 of 21The morning is dedicated to a 4x4 excursion into the backcountry around Kolašin. The off-road route traverses rugged mountain terrain, river valleys, and forests, with stops at viewpoints along the way. After lunch, the journey continues south by road to Podgorica, Montenegro's capital. An afternoon walk explores the old town, Stari Grad, and the ruins of the 15th-century Turkish fortress that once stood here.
On the ground
Across the Border to Theth
Day 6 of 21Today's drive crosses the Hani i Hotit - Bozhaj border from Montenegro into Albania. The first destination is Theth National Park, a remote region of the Albanian Alps characterized by sharp peaks and wildflower meadows. A 45-minute walk each way from Theth village leads to the Grunasi Waterfall, a 25-meter cascade falling from a limestone cliff. In the afternoon, the journey continues to the historic city of Shkodër.
On the ground
Rozafa Castle & Shkodër's Old Town
Day 7 of 21A morning walking tour of Shkodër begins at Rozafa Castle, which offers panoramic views across the city and toward Albania's 'Accursed Mountains'. From the castle, the walk descends into the old town to explore its historic streets and the 18th-century Ottoman-era Mesi Bridge. The afternoon is free to delve deeper into the city's museums, monuments, and cafes at your own pace.
On the ground
Skanderbeg's Krujë & on to Tirana
Day 8 of 21The route heads south from Shkodër, breaking the journey in the mountain town of Krujë. Historically the first capital of the Albanian state, it's best known as the hometown of national hero Skanderbeg. There's time to walk through the Old Bazaar and visit the Castle of Krujë before continuing the drive. The day ends in Tirana, Albania's capital, arriving in the afternoon with the evening free.
On the ground
Roman Ruins & the Adriatic Coast
Day 9 of 21A short drive from Tirana leads to the ancient coastal city of Durrës, founded in the 7th century B.C. The main site is the Roman amphitheater, a massive 2nd-century structure that once held 20,000 people. After exploring the ruins, the journey continues south along the coast to Vlorë. An afternoon walk through the city's old town takes in historic landmarks, including the 16th-century Muradie Mosque, before sunset over the Adriatic.
On the ground
A Shepherd's Life in the Mountains
Day 10 of 21Today offers a look at traditional life in the mountains behind Vlorë. A short drive to the village of Tragjas marks the start of a 3km hike, climbing 280 meters to a shepherd's outpost. Here, local shepherds share details of their pastoral life, followed by a traditional lunch at their farm. The 5-6 hour excursion concludes with a hike back down and a return drive to Vlorë, leaving the rest of the day free.
On the ground
Sources
The Albanian Riviera to Gjirokastër
Day 11 of 21A full day is spent driving the spectacular Albanian Riviera. The route south from Vlorë includes several key stops. First is the seaside town of Himarë for a walk and lunch break. Further south, near Ksamil, is the 19th-century Ali Pasha Castle, set on a small peninsula. The day's main highlight is Butrint, a UNESCO-listed archaeological park with extensive Greek and Roman ruins preserved in a marshy landscape. The day ends with the final drive inland to the stone city of Gjirokastër.
On the ground
Stone City & Vineyard Tasting
Day 12 of 21The morning is for exploring Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its unique Ottoman-era stone architecture. A walk through the old city leads to the imposing Gjirokastër Castle, which contains a military museum and the city's former prison. After free time for lunch, the afternoon is spent at a local family-run vineyard for a tour, a tasting of their red and white wines, and a light dinner of regional specialties.
On the ground
Berat, the "Town of a 1001 Windows"
Day 13 of 21A three-hour drive north leads to Berat, another of Albania's UNESCO-listed cities. Famous for its white Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside, it's known as the "Town of a Thousand Windows." An afternoon walk explores the city's distinct quarters: the sprawling 13th-century castle fortress, or Kala, on the hill, and the historic Mangalem and Gorica neighborhoods lining opposite banks of the Osum River. The evening is free to explore further.
On the ground
Return to Tirana
Day 14 of 21A straightforward travel day returns to Albania's capital. The morning drive from Berat takes about two hours, arriving in Tirana around midday. This leaves a full afternoon and evening free to explore the city at leisure, revisit favorite spots, or check out the museums and cafes in the trendy Blloku district.
On the ground
Crossing into North Macedonia
Day 15 of 21The route crosses the border from Albania into North Macedonia, heading for the city of Ohrid. Set on the shore of one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes, the city and Lake Ohrid are a combined UNESCO World Heritage site. After arriving and finding lunch in the old bazaar, a short boat cruise on the lake provides the best perspective on the city's historic architecture and its mountainous backdrop. The rest of the day is free.
On the ground
Churches and Cuisine in Ohrid
Day 16 of 21A full day is spent exploring Ohrid on foot. A 4km walking route through the old town takes in historic landmarks like the churches of San Perivlepta and San Sofia and the Monastery of Saint Clement, perched above the lake. Midday brings a change of pace with a cooking demonstration from a local chef, learning about regional specialties that then serve as a light lunch. Afterwards, a visit to the city's 2,200-year-old Roman amphitheater completes the tour, leaving the afternoon free.
On the ground
Wine Stops on the Way to Skopje
Day 17 of 21Today is a multi-stop journey to North Macedonia's capital. The first break is in Bitola for a walk along Širok Sokak, a long and elegant pedestrian street. From there, the drive continues into the Stobi wine region for a tour and tasting at a winery near the town of Gradsko. The final leg reaches Skopje in the afternoon. An orientation walk covers the city's eclectic mix of Byzantine history, Ottoman-era baths, and controversial modern statues, ending with a walk up to the Kale Fortress for city views.
On the ground
Into Kosovo: Prizren's Old Town
Day 18 of 21After a relaxed morning, the route crosses the border into Kosovo. The destination is Prizren, a city celebrated for its well-preserved Ottoman old town. An afternoon orientation walk follows the Bistrica river, crossing the old stone bridge into the cobbled Shadervan square. As evening approaches, a steep 15-minute climb up to the Prizren Fortress is rewarded with sunset views over the city's rooftops, minarets, and the surrounding valley.
On the ground
A Free Day in Prizren
Day 19 of 21A full free day to explore Prizren. The city is a hub for traditional filigree artisans, and their workshops are scattered throughout the old town. Other options include a leisurely hike along the Bistrica River, further exploration of the city's many mosques and churches, or simply finding a cafe in Shadervan square to watch the world go by. Local wineries also offer tasting excursions.
On the ground
The Final Stop: Pristina
Day 20 of 21After a relaxed morning in Prizren, a short drive leads to Pristina, the capital of Kosovo. An orientation walk covers the city's main historical and cultural landmarks, from the UNESCO-listed Gračanica Monastery to the modern Newborn monument and a statue of Bill Clinton commemorating his role in the Kosovo War. The rest of the afternoon is free to explore the city's vibrant cafe scene or browse its shops before a final evening.
On the ground
Departure from Pristina
Day 21 of 21The journey concludes in Pristina. There are no activities planned for the final day, leaving you free to pack and make your way to Pristina International Airport for your onward flight. Depart at any time.
On the ground
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