An Unfiltered Travel Guide & Photo Diary
The unstructured streets of Karaköy stand in sharp contrast to the steep, winding 4x4 ascent to Gergeti Trinity Church in the Caucasus Mountains. Linking these regions involves a morning flight to Adıyaman, a 400-kilometre drive to Lake Van, and crossing the Öncül/Aktaş border gate. The route continues south across the Sadakhlo border to Yerevan.
The wind-swept ruins of Ani, an abandoned medieval Armenian capital, anchor a route that winds past the limestone houses of Mardin and the high-altitude waters of Lake Sevan.
Arrival in Istanbul
Day 1 of 20Arrive in Istanbul at any time. The day is unstructured, providing time to check into a hotel and get oriented in historic districts like Sultanahmet or a more modern area like Karaköy. A walk around the neighborhood is a good way to start, perhaps finding a local spot for dinner.
On the ground
Sunset Over Mount Nemrut
Day 2 of 20A morning flight from Istanbul lands you in Adıyaman, the gateway to southeastern Turkey's ancient sites. The afternoon is a packed overland route, starting with lunch by the Atatürk Dam lake. From there, the road leads to the Karakus Tumulus, a 1st-century BC funerary monument for royal women, and the Roman-era Cendere bridge. The day culminates with an ascent of Mount Nemrut to watch the sunset over its famous collection of colossal stone heads, scattered remnants of a royal tomb. The drive back to Adıyaman for the night takes about 90km.
On the ground
The World's Oldest Temple
Day 3 of 20The day begins with an overland drive towards Şanlıurfa, with a potential stop for views over the Atatürk Dam. The main event is Göbekli Tepe, an archaeological site that has rewritten human history. Dating back around 11,600 years, it's considered the world's oldest known temple complex. Explore the rings of massive, T-shaped limestone pillars, many carved with animal reliefs, before continuing the short distance to Şanlıurfa (often called Urfa) for the night. The rest of the day is free to explore the city's sacred pools and bustling bazaar.
On the ground
The Limestone City of Mardin
Day 4 of 20A 200km drive east brings you to Mardin, a city of honey-colored limestone houses cascading down a steep hill overlooking the Mesopotamian plains. The UNESCO-protected old town is an open-air museum of Syrian Orthodox churches, mosques, and historic madrasas. A walking tour covers key sites like the Kasımıye Medresesi, the Deyrulzafaran Monastery on the city's outskirts, the Great Mosque, and the Virgin Mary Church. The rest of the afternoon is open for independent exploration of the city's winding alleyways and covered markets.
On the ground
Akdamar Island on Lake Van
Day 5 of 20Today involves a long but scenic 400km overland journey to Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey. The drive ends in the lakeside town of Gevaş. From here, a short boat trip crosses the saline soda lake to Akdamar Island. The island is dominated by the 10th-century Armenian Cathedral of the Holy Cross, its exterior covered in intricate biblical relief carvings. After exploring the island on foot, a boat returns you to the mainland for the short drive to the city of Van. The evening includes dinner with a local family.
On the ground
Ishak Pasha Palace & Mount Ararat
Day 6 of 20The morning starts with a visit to the Van Citadel, a massive stone fortification built by the ancient kingdom of Urartu that overlooks the modern city. From Van, the route pushes north towards Doğubeyazıt, a drive of about 170km. Here, the main stop is the Ishak Pasha Palace, an ornate 18th-century complex blending Ottoman, Persian, and Armenian styles on a strategic perch along the old Silk Road. The palace offers commanding views of Mount Ararat, the biblical resting place of Noah's Ark. Afterwards, continue the journey another 175km to Kars for the night.
On the ground
The Ghost City of Ani
Day 7 of 20A short drive from Kars (45km) leads to the haunting ruins of Ani. Once the magnificent capital of a medieval Armenian kingdom, Ani was known as the "City of 1001 Churches." Today, its cathedrals, palaces, and fortifications lie abandoned in a dramatic, windswept landscape on the Turkish-Armenian border. Walk among the ruins, imagining the city at its peak when it was a major hub on the Silk Road. The afternoon is spent back in Kars, with free time to explore the city's unique Russian-influenced architecture and sample its famous cheese.
On the ground
Crossing into Georgia
Day 8 of 20Today is a full travel day, crossing from Turkey into Georgia. The drive from Kars to the Öncül/Aktaş border gate covers about 155km. After completing border formalities, the journey continues into Georgia's southern highlands. The route passes scenic lakes before a lunch stop in the small town of Poka, home to the St. Nino Monastery, where local nuns produce cheese and chocolates. From Poka, it's another 180km drive through the countryside to reach Georgia's capital, Tbilisi, arriving in the evening.
On the ground
Exploring Old Tbilisi
Day 9 of 20A walking tour of Tbilisi provides a solid introduction to the city's layered history. The route winds through the Old Town, passing the Metekhi Temple and the historic Abanotubani bath district, known for its sulphur springs. A climb or cable car ride up to the Narikala Fortress offers panoramic views across the city and the Mtkvari River. The walk descends to the old Caravanserai, a testament to the city's past as a Silk Road hub. The afternoon is free to explore further, from the modern Peace Bridge to the many cafes and wine bars.
On the ground
Gergeti Trinity Church & Khinkali
Day 10 of 20The day heads north from Tbilisi along the Georgian Military Highway towards the Caucasus Mountains. In the village of Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi), switch to 4x4 vehicles for the steep, winding ascent to the Gergeti Trinity Church. Perched at 2,170 meters with Mount Kazbek as its backdrop, the 14th-century church is an iconic symbol of Georgia. After exploring the site, join a local family for a hands-on cooking lesson to make khinkali, the region's signature meat dumplings. The day ends in the ski resort town of Gudauri, after a stop at the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument.
On the ground
Sources
Stalin's Birthplace & a Cave City
Day 11 of 20The route turns west today, descending from the mountains towards Kutaisi. The first major stop is Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Here, you can visit the controversial Stalin Museum, which preserves his childhood home and personal effects, or climb to the Gori Fortress for views over the valley. A short drive away is Uplistsikhe, an ancient city carved directly into a rocky bluff above the Mtkvari River. Dating back to the early Iron Age, it's a fascinating complex of caves, tunnels, and halls to explore on foot. The day ends with a 160km drive to Kutaisi, Georgia's third-largest city.
On the ground
Waterfalls of Martvili Canyon
Day 12 of 20A 50km drive from Kutaisi leads to the Martvili Canyon, a gorge carved by the Abasha River with walls rising up to 70 meters. A short boat ride navigates a section of the canyon, offering close-up views of its waterfalls and lush vegetation. A 700-meter walking trail then follows the canyon rim, leading to the village of Inchkhuri where you can find lunch. The afternoon is back in Kutaisi with free time. An optional walk up to the 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral provides excellent views of the city and Rioni River.
On the ground
Ancient Mtskheta & Return to Tbilisi
Day 13 of 20Leaving Kutaisi, the route heads back east towards Tbilisi. The main stop is Mtskheta, the ancient capital and religious heart of Georgia. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the city is home to the magnificent 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, where Christ's robe is said to be buried. After exploring the historic town, a nearby stop at Terragarden includes a cooking class and lunch. The final leg of the journey is a short 25km drive back to Tbilisi, arriving with time to settle in before a final Georgian evening.
On the ground
Crossing into Armenia
Day 14 of 20Another border crossing day, this time from Georgia into Armenia. The drive south from Tbilisi to the Sadakhlo border takes about an hour. After clearing immigration, the journey continues into Armenia's Lori Province. The main stop is Vanadzor, Armenia's third-largest city, for a walk through its central market and a break for lunch. From Vanadzor, it's a final 130km drive through rolling hills and past Mount Aragats to reach the capital, Yerevan, for the evening.
On the ground
Carpets, Cascades, and Duduks
Day 15 of 20A walking tour of Yerevan covers the city's key landmarks and cultural touchstones. Start at the grand Republic Square, the heart of the city's Soviet-era architecture. A visit to the Megerian Carpet Museum offers insight into the ancient tradition of Armenian rug weaving. The tour continues to the Cascade, a giant limestone stairway offering fantastic views over the city towards Mount Ararat. The day also includes an introduction to the khachkar (carved cross-stone) and a lesson on playing the duduk, Armenia's iconic double-reed woodwind instrument, with a local musician. The rest of the day is free.
On the ground
Lake Sevan & Armenia's 'Little Switzerland'
Day 16 of 20The day starts with a 70km drive to Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude freshwater lakes in the world. There's time to explore the Sevanavank monastery on the peninsula before continuing to Dilijan, a lush, forested spa town often called "Armenia's Little Switzerland." Here, a visit to a local home includes a cooking class to learn how to make gata, a traditional sweet pastry. A walk through Dilijan's historic Sharambeyan Street, with its restored 19th-century architecture, rounds out the afternoon before an overnight stay in the town.
On the ground
Monasteries and Ancient Wineries
Day 17 of 20The 340km overland journey from Dilijan south to Goris takes a full day, broken up by key historical stops. First is Khor Virap Monastery, a major pilgrimage site positioned directly against the backdrop of Mount Ararat. Further south, the route reaches the Areni-1 cave complex. This site contains the world's oldest known winery, dating back over 6,000 years, and is where a perfectly preserved 5,500-year-old leather shoe was discovered. The final leg is a 130km drive into a valley of bizarre rock formations to reach Goris and the Mina Hotel Goris.
On the ground
Wings of Tatev & Return to Yerevan
Day 18 of 20The morning in Goris begins with a visit to a local women's empowerment project. The day's main highlight is the journey to the Tatev Monastery. To reach it, you ride the "Wings of Tatev," the world's longest reversible aerial tramway, which soars for 12 minutes over the deep Vorotan River Gorge. The 9th-century monastery complex itself is a masterpiece of medieval Armenian architecture, perched on a cliff edge. After exploring the site, a long 4-5 hour drive (250km) brings you back to Yerevan for the night.
On the ground
Free Day in Yerevan
Day 19 of 20The last full day is free for independent exploration in Yerevan. Options include diving deeper into the city's museums, like the History Museum or the Matenadaran manuscript repository. A popular day trip heads out of the city to the UNESCO-listed Geghard Monastery, partially carved out of a cliff face, and the Hellenistic-style Garni Temple, the only pagan temple remaining in Armenia. This excursion often includes a stop for a cooking demonstration at a local guesthouse.
On the ground
Departure from Yerevan
Day 20 of 20The trip concludes today in Yerevan. There are no planned activities, leaving the day open for last-minute souvenir shopping or a final Armenian coffee before heading to Zvartnots International Airport (EVN) for departure.
On the ground
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