Essential India

Arrive in Delhi at any time. Your airport transfer can be arranged through a local social enterprise that employs female drivers. Settle in, drop your bags, and use the afternoon to acclimatize to the city's kinetic energy before the journey begins in earnest.

The day starts with a walk through the city led by a guide from a youth-support project, offering a perspective on Delhi from street level. From there, head into the heart of Old Delhi to visit the Jama Masjid, the city's largest mosque. It's worth climbing one of its minarets for a commanding view over the old city's sprawl. Afterwards, push through the crowds of Chandni Chowk, one of India's oldest markets, and visit the Gurdwara Sis Ganj to learn about the Sikh religion. The day ends at Connaught Place, a stark architectural reminder of British rule.

A five-to-six-hour overland journey brings you to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, known as the 'Pink City'. En route, there's a stop at a women's cooperative for a hands-on lesson in the traditional craft of block printing. Once in Jaipur, the evening is free. A good option is to catch a Bollywood film at the famous Art Deco Raj Mandir cinema for a full-on cultural immersion.

Today is about Jaipur's iconic architecture. Start with a photo stop at the Hawa Mahal, the 'Palace of the Winds,' with its intricate, honeycomb-like facade. The main event is the Amber Fort, a sprawling complex of palaces, halls, and courtyards perched on a hilltop overlooking the city. Spend a few hours exploring the blend of Hindu and Mughal styles before heading back into the city.

Leave the city behind for a short 50km drive to Dhula Village. This is a chance to see a quieter side of Rajasthan. A cycling trip through the surrounding countryside offers a ground-level view of rural life, far from the traffic of Jaipur. The night is spent in a tented camp, a simple setup with beds and basic en suite bathrooms, under a clear, starry sky.

The journey continues towards Āgra, a 250km drive. The main stop along the way is the Chand Baori in Abhaneri, an ancient and visually arresting stepwell. Descending 13 stories and 30 meters into the earth, its thousands of symmetrical steps were designed for rainwater harvesting. After exploring the stepwell, the drive finishes in Āgra, home of the Taj Mahal.

An early start is required for a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Seeing the white marble mausoleum as the first light hits is the classic way to experience it. After taking time to walk the grounds, the day continues with visits to Āgra's other major sites. Explore the red sandstone walls of the Agra Fort, a massive 16th-century Mughal fortress-city. Afterwards, visit the tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, often called the 'Baby Taj' for its intricate marble inlay work that predates the more famous monument.

The day begins with a morning train ride out of Āgra, followed by a two-hour drive over rough rural roads to the village of Alipura. The destination is a heritage property, a former palace that now serves as a hotel. The afternoon is free to wander the quiet streets of the village, offering a glimpse into a more traditional pace of life.

From the base in Alipura, a day trip runs to Khajuraho, about a 90-minute drive each way. This UNESCO site is home to India's largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, renowned for their intricate and famously erotic sculptures. A guided tour is the best way to decipher the history and symbolism carved into the temple walls. The evening is spent back at the heritage hotel in Alipura.

It's a 2.5-hour drive to Orchha, a small town on the Betwa River that feels like an antidote to the chaos of India's larger cities. On the way, there's a stop at a paper-making plant that uses recycled materials and provides employment for local tribal women. After an orientation walk in Orchha, the day ends by attending an evening puja (prayer ceremony) at the Ram Raja Temple.

The morning is dedicated to exploring the Orchha Palace complex, a collection of impressive and semi-ruined mahals from the 16th and 17th centuries. There's free time afterwards to wander the local markets or relax by the river. In the late afternoon, a short drive leads to Jhānsi station to board the overnight train to the holy city of Varanasi.

The train arrives in Varanasi, one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities and a major Hindu pilgrimage site. After checking in, an orientation walk helps navigate the labyrinthine alleys of the old city. The main event is an evening boat trip on the River Ganges. From the water, you can watch the rituals unfold on the ghats and witness a candle-lit flower ceremony as dusk settles over the city.

Another early start for a boat trip on the Ganges, this time to witness the sunrise. The morning light reveals pilgrims performing dawn rituals of bathing and prayer along the riverbanks. The rest of the day is free to explore Varanasi's temples and markets at your own pace. A worthwhile side trip is to nearby Sarnath, the historic deer park where the Buddha is said to have given his first sermon.

A final morning in Varanasi allows for some last-minute souvenir hunting or one last walk along the ghats. Later, it's time to board the train for the long ride back to Delhi. The evening is free upon arrival, offering a final chance to find a good curry or explore a neighborhood you missed the first time around.

The journey concludes in Delhi. There are no activities planned for the day, and you can depart at any time. Pack your bags and head to the airport for your flight home.