Italy: A Week on the Amalfi Coast

Arrive in Naples at any time and make your way to the hotel. Check-in is typically in the afternoon. The first day is for settling in; a walk through the surrounding streets is a good way to get a feel for the city's tempo before the week begins in earnest. One practical note: the agriturismo's home-cooked meals later in the week run on a set menu — special dietary requirements cannot be accommodated.

The day begins with a walking tour of Naples led by a city newcomer, offering a different perspective on its historic streets. Afterwards, an overland journey covers the 26 kilometres to Pompeii for a guided walk through the excavated city, frozen in time by Vesuvius. The day ends with a drive into the hills above the Amalfi Coast, arriving at a rural agriturismo that will serve as the week's base.

After settling in, the hosts give a tour of the property, a former monastery surrounded by lemon groves and gardens. The evening includes a home-cooked dinner and a short demonstration (about 15 to 60 minutes) of how to prepare a regional dish.

Today’s walk follows the 'Valle dei Mulini' route, a path that feels miles from the coastal bustle. The trail ascends for about an hour and a half, following the Rio Canneto through woodland and past the ruins of old paper mills that give the valley its name. The destination is the quiet Valle delle Ferriere National Park. The trail involves many steps but offers a chance to experience the region's quieter, more pastoral side before descending back toward the coast at Amalfi. As with all the guided walks this week, today's hike is optional.

A day with no set schedule. This is a chance to explore independently or simply stay put and enjoy the quiet of the agriturismo. For those wanting to see more of the coast, transport can be arranged for a visit to Ravello, a town set on a cliff high above the Mediterranean, known for its historic villas and gardens. Otherwise, the day is free to read on a terrace or find a quiet path through the surrounding lemon groves.

Set out on the Sentiero degli Dei, or 'Path of the Gods,' the most famous trail in the region. This ancient mule track connects the high villages, climbing along ridges far above the sea with open views of the coastline. The path is rough and exposed in places, a proper hike that rewards the effort. It eventually descends into the stacked houses and narrow lanes of Positano.

From Positano, the perspective shifts with a scenic ferry ride along the coast to the town of Amalfi. This is a chance to see the cliffs and villages from the water before a vehicle transfer takes you back up into the hills for dinner.

A second free day to use as you see fit. There are more local trails to walk, or you can head down to the coast to visit Amalfi's historic cathedral and spend some time on the beach. It’s an opportunity to revisit a town or simply relax at the agriturismo. In the evening, the hosts will give a second cooking demonstration — about 15 to 60 minutes — sharing another recipe from the region's repertoire before dinner is served.

The final hike of the week is a challenging one, ascending the slopes of Mount Tre Calli. Like the other guided walks this week, today's climb is optional. The walk begins in the village of Bomerano, starting on a mix of paved roads and dirt tracks before the trail turns steeply uphill. The second half of the route is a demanding climb on the open, rocky side of the mountain. The effort is for the views, which are consistently open and look down across the entire sweep of the coast. The descent is equally steep before the return to the agriturismo for a final dinner.

The week ends after breakfast. A morning transfer leaves the agriturismo around 8:30am, making the journey back to Naples and arriving at the central train station by 11am for onward travel. Travelers wanting a slower start can stay at the agriturismo until checkout at 11am and arrange their own onward transport from there.