Patagonia: Torres del Paine & Los Glaciares

Fly into Puerto Natales, the port town that serves as the primary gateway to Torres del Paine. A vehicle waits for the transfer from Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport. Settle in, then walk the small town grid as evening falls. The day ends with a dinner of fresh, local seafood, the conversation turning to the week of trekking ahead. Arrival transfer covers about 9 kilometres from the airport to the hotel.

An early start begins with a 1.5-hour drive north towards the park. The day's 13-kilometre trek starts not inside the park gates, but from Mirador Grey, a viewpoint near Lago Toro that frames the first views of the Paine massif and the distant Grey Glacier. The trail winds from the lookout through the pampas grasslands, past the edge of Laguna Claudio, and ends at Kau Rio Serrano, situated near the park's southern entrance on the banks of the Río Serrano. Lunch is taken on the trail, surrounded by the open landscape. The arrival at the hotel is in the early afternoon, leaving time to get acquainted with the property, which will serve as the base for the next three nights of exploration.

Today's objective is the park's most recognizable landmark: the three granite towers of Las Torres. The day begins with a transfer to the park's visitor centre, the start point for the demanding ascent. The trail climbs steadily through the Ascencio Valley, a steep final push over a moraine field revealing the iconic view: three sheer granite spires rising above a turquoise glacial lake.

This is the definitive Torres del Paine photograph, earned with a significant physical effort. A packed lunch is eaten at the viewpoint, allowing time to absorb the scale of the formation before beginning the long descent back to the trailhead and the waiting vehicle for the return to the hotel.

The day's route combines land and water to access a different perspective on the park. A short drive leads to the Pudeto dock, where a catamaran waits for the crossing of Lake Pehoé to the Paine Grande campsite. The scenery from the water, with the Cuernos del Paine rising sharply, is a highlight in itself.

From Paine Grande, the trail heads north along the shore of Grey Lake. The destination is a viewpoint looking out towards the massive face of the Grey Glacier and the nunataks—rock islands—that rise from the ice. After the return hike to the campsite, the ferry retraces its path across the lake for the transfer back to the hotel.

The focus today is the overland journey from Chile to Argentina. The long drive east leaves the jagged peaks of Torres del Paine behind, trading them for the vast, rolling grasslands of the Patagonian steppe. This is sheep country, and the roads are often shared with roaming guanacos. The border crossing happens at the quiet Paso Río Don Guillermo outpost.

The drive takes up most of the day, with a packed lunch taken en route. Arrival in El Calafate, a town on the shore of Lago Argentino, is in the early evening. The night is free to explore the town's grid of shops and find a local restaurant for dinner.

A transfer from El Calafate leads into Los Glaciares National Park, home to one of the world's few advancing glaciers. The Perito Moreno Glacier is a wall of ice 70 meters high, and a network of viewing platforms and walkways allows for exploration along its face. The experience is auditory as much as visual; the steady groan of moving ice is punctuated by the sharp crack and thunderous crash of calving icebergs into the lake below.

A packed lunch is eaten with a direct view of the glacier. The afternoon is spent on the walkways before the return transfer to El Calafate for a free evening.

The journey shifts from public roads to private access. A vehicle transfer leads to the Punta Bandera port, where a boat navigates west across the vast expanse of Lago Argentino. The route passes icebergs and offers views of the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers en route to the remote Cristina Channel. Disembarking here feels like arriving in a different, quieter Patagonia.

The destination is Estancia Cristina, a historic sheep ranch turned wilderness lodge, accessible only by boat. After lunch, the afternoon is free to explore the property's immediate surroundings. Options include self-guided hikes, birdwatching, or a historical walk of the estancia grounds before dinner is served at the lodge. Alternative for the afternoon: an optional horseback ride through the Rio Caterina Valley.

The day is dedicated to exploring the estancia's vast private lands. The morning begins with a rugged 4x4 expedition, climbing through native forest to a viewpoint that was once part of the Upsala Glacier's domain. This is the only land-based lookout with this perspective of the glacier's eastern face.

The afternoon offers a choice of guided activities. The most demanding is a trek through the Cañadón de los Fósiles (14km), a high-altitude canyon rich with marine fossils. A less strenuous option is the hike to Cerro Carnero for panoramic valley views. For a gentle walk, the trail to Cascada de los Perros waterfall is a short, scenic loop. All routes return to the estancia for lunch and dinner.

The final morning at Estancia Cristina offers one last opportunity to explore this remote Patagonian wilderness. A walk to the Los Perros waterfall runs about 5.5 kilometres, though you can also opt for a horseback ride with views of Pearson Lake before lunch is served at the estancia. The return journey begins in the afternoon, retracing the boat route across Lago Argentino back to the port at Punta Bandera. From there, the road transfer back to El Calafate covers roughly 50 kilometres, ending at Hotel Mirador del Lago. The day concludes with a traditional Patagonian feast—a dinner centered around fire-roasted lamb and other regional specialties.

The journey through Patagonia's Chilean and Argentinian wilderness concludes today. After a final breakfast, the day is free for onward travel. Departures can be arranged from El Calafate at any time.